JoeyInCali wrote:
Quote:
That's because I build practical TOOLS not ART.... and tools aren't usually made to look pretty.. they are made to get the job done ! (remember, the less cuts and pieces you have in a cue, the less absorbed the energy transfer is and the truer the feedback is to your hand... which is why house cues play so solidly well)
Why do you do 3-segment handles with fiber and nickel rings then?
Joey~Wonders what kind of engineering you can do on a Porper lathe with no thread gear ~
The customers want a little personality to the cues so we settle on a happy medium and due to target weights, overall diameters and lengths, it determines the maximum amount of "flair" each cue is allowed before the original natural feel of the wood is compromised to the point of ineffectiveness, (which is also why I don't core forearms unless absolutely necessary becasue each wood has it's own specific characteristics that factor in with each construction).
Actually the Porper-B has a variable speed feed screw but I know what you are getting at. I manage to do pretty well with out it.. I'm very resourceful though and every cue I have built thusfar that you guys have seen has been done on the Model-B... I have made some changes to it since I bought it new back in 1992 to allow me full custom taper controls as well as a router jig for square ripping clearance and point cutting for those who must have points in their cues.
I do miss having the align-rite CNC (almost 15.000.00 by the way) because it is a cool piece of equipment with almost unlimited potential, but I really don't need it for the type of basic design cues I build due to the primary focus of what I do is more internal than external which is why my average price is 400.00 so that EVERYONE can afford a custom built cue.
Once again, I try to keep the designs simple, but the customer is the one using it so there must be an existing asthetic appeal too.... "a happy medium" so to speak !
- Eddie Wheat