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PostPosted: Wed Aug 18, 2010 10:38 pm 
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hdgis1 wrote:
This is my first post on this forum and I have to say that this series of threads is AWESOME!!!!!

Do I get to ask a question now? :mrgreen:



Is there a limit on the number of veneers one can use on a given point? I realize thickness has something to do with it...

I think I may have answered my own question - Am I right to think that the more veneers one uses, the smaller the point material will end up?

Chris


You are correct. As far as amount of veneers, you can use whatever amount you wish. Very popular today to use asst size veneers in the same cue. On the short splice thread you can see an asstortment of .035 with .026 and also .035 with the paper .008.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 18, 2010 10:54 pm 
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Very informative thread. It is very cool to see the actual pieces used before assmbly.


Chris

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 19, 2010 7:37 am 
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Hey my friends - you all are going to make me crazy !

To Murray, Mike, BHQ and all the others guys here who wrote in this thread,
you guys are awesome and I love to read threads like that.

To learn more about cuemaking and of course about wood, and even things
Burton Spain was thinking is fantastic - thanks again to all of you out there.

Eric"h" - loves to be in Jimbos Army :mrgreen:

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Last edited by mair23 on Thu Aug 19, 2010 8:11 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 19, 2010 7:52 am 
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I just wanted to add this as it was driving me crazy last night. There is truth to the idea that multiple veneers (as in plywood) adds some strength. However, the key to plywood is that those veneers are cross grain oriented. I admit I have never even seen the inside of a cuemakers shop, but from what I can tell, the veneer orientation in a cue is virtually parallel to the grain structure of the forearm. So I am not sure to what degree, if any, veneers add strength to a cue.

Chris


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 19, 2010 8:07 am 
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hdgis1 wrote:
I just wanted to add this as it was driving me crazy last night. There is truth to the idea that multiple veneers (as in plywood) adds some strength. However, the key to plywood is that those veneers are cross grain oriented. I admit I have never even seen the inside of a cuemakers shop, but from what I can tell, the veneer orientation in a cue is virtually parallel to the grain structure of the forearm. So I am not sure to what degree, if any, veneers add strength to a cue.

Chris



That´s the reason why Burton Spain spoke about "CROSS GRAINING".
So if the veneers would be glued together and "CROSS GRAINED" it would make sense.
At least in my mind :lol:

Eric"h"

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 19, 2010 9:06 am 
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Are the veneers cross grained in a cue? You should be able to tell by the reflective nature (called chatoyance) of the wood as they lay perpendicular to each other.

Chris


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 19, 2010 9:16 am 
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hdgis1 wrote:
Are the veneers cross grained in a cue? You should be able to tell by the reflective nature (called chatoyance) of the wood as they lay perpendicular to each other.

Chris



As I am not a cuemaker, and by far no wood specialist, I have no idea if you can see it.
But I don´t think so, because we only see the side (surface) of the venner wood.

Maybe Burton Spain has done it on his blanks :?: :shock: :?:
Maybe somebody should ask Joel Hercek about that :idea: :idea:

Eric"h"

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 24, 2010 1:14 pm 
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Murray,
Have a quick question... Would be possible to post something on paper veneers as well?
What would be the recommended source for both wood and paper veneers?

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 14, 2010 2:02 am 
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nice anatomy.. really speaks of the creative side of construction.. quite a masterpiece!! nice one really.. :mrgreen:

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PostPosted: Sat May 14, 2016 9:51 am 
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My step daughter needed something to practice her video production skills on. Glueing up veneer stack was the only thing I did that week.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-rpnIE3bwyU&sns=em

Larry


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PostPosted: Sat May 14, 2016 5:33 pm 
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Nice Larry. Thanks for posting.

Scott

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PostPosted: Sun May 15, 2016 10:33 pm 
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I've been using West system epoxy for laminating veneers since the 80's. I've been very happy with the consistent results I get, and there are a few things I do a bit differently:

1) Veneer pieces are not always a perfectly consistent thickness from one end to the other, so I always check with a Mitutoyo thickness gauge. If more than one piece varies from end to end I turn them (relative to each other) to avoid an accumulative "wedge" error in the finished sandwich.

2) For each surface I pour a glob of epoxy on the surface and then spread with a plastic playing card. I've tried brushes and rollers in the past, but the "squeegee" nature of the playing card seems to allow for the most consistent surface penetration. It's also faster than a brush.

3) In contrast to the teachings of Dennis Deikman - who in his videotape "teaching series" recommended using Elmer's glue and a couple of cinder blocks - I put my sandwiches between two layers of vacuum-clamping bag material, and then between two ground steel plates. At that point the entire assembly goes into a 12-ton press, and I squash the living shit out of it.

Other than those personal-preference points, Larry's video pretty much provides what I would consider the "A answer" to the veneer sandwich making question.

TW



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PostPosted: Fri Jun 03, 2016 1:25 pm 
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63Kcode wrote:
My step daughter needed something to practice her video production skills on. Glueing up veneer stack was the only thing I did that week.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-rpnIE3bwyU&sns=em

Larry



Good stuff, thanks for posting it here, I forget the wealth of good info in this section.

Jim<----- going over some old threads today

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