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PostPosted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 9:48 pm 
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Some joint cap rings I made for my Jim White Titlist conversion cue. I'm not set up to cut the slots, so I got a huge help from a real cue maker.

This is the blank before slots were cut and the glued veneer pack before it was cue into strips to glue into the slots. Sorry I don't have pictures of the slots and strips.

Scott


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jmw parts.JPG
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 9:51 pm 
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This is after the strips were glued into the slots and turned flush, parted into the ring, initial fit, glued and turned flush and mated to the butt to line the rings up.

Scott


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100_4702s.JPG
100_4702s.JPG [ 67.13 KiB | Viewed 663 times ]
100_4704s.JPG
100_4704s.JPG [ 71.89 KiB | Viewed 664 times ]
100_4708s.JPG
100_4708s.JPG [ 61.34 KiB | Viewed 665 times ]
100_4712s.JPG
100_4712s.JPG [ 55.19 KiB | Viewed 665 times ]
100_4714s.JPG
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 9:54 pm 
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It's funny, well not really, that I can see in that last picture that I made the brown phenolic too thick for both pieces. Guess I need to spring for better DRO or calipers, huh? :P

I was so worried about getting the slotted ring thickness right that I guess I didn't pay enough attention to the phenolic.

Scott <<== rank amateur

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 10:28 pm 
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ScottR wrote:
It's funny, well not really, that I can see in that last picture that I made the brown phenolic too thick for both pieces. Guess I need to spring for better DRO or calipers, huh? :P

I was so worried about getting the slotted ring thickness right that I guess I didn't pay enough attention to the phenolic.

Scott <<== rank amateur


Scott, if the cap is still in it's present state in the last pix, it's a pretty easy fix to even the phenolic out.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 11:59 pm 
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ScottR wrote:
It's funny, well not really, that I can see in that last picture that I made the brown phenolic too thick for both pieces. Guess I need to spring for better DRO or calipers, huh? :P

I was so worried about getting the slotted ring thickness right that I guess I didn't pay enough attention to the phenolic.

Scott <<== rank amateur



Scott it looks like an easy fix, and you are certainly not a rank amateur the work looks great partner, I think I am a better example of Rank Amateur than you are!!

Thanks for sharing Scott, again I think the rings look great.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 12, 2010 9:36 am 
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It was rather the same in terms of how I did this, but here's a set of rings that I made... (learned some valuable lessons in this process!)


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z4 200.jpg
z4 200.jpg [ 121.94 KiB | Viewed 597 times ]
z4 203.jpg
z4 203.jpg [ 128.12 KiB | Viewed 599 times ]

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 12, 2010 1:10 pm 
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Maybe I'm slightly off the main subject of decorative rings, but... :oops:

When I make caps to match Decorative Rings for cues,
I gotta get the thickness within .005" of the original Ring's thickness.

Up to about 2 years ago, I asumed everyone was working with fractional sizes,
1/16" , 1/8", etc.....
When I was with Barry at '09 SBE, I asked and finally, I found out...
The cuemakers of those earlier years used thicknesses like .050" - .055" , .100"
.200" .350".... Etc..
Sorry to all who got my earlier works..
That .005" made a big difference when the rings are close together, like on both
sides of the Joint Collar when the Cap is installed..

Another is:
When I part-off the rings off the Billet, I always part-off the rings thicker and
face them off to final thickness size after I glue them on the tendon of the Joint protector..

I always wondered if Cuemakers "part them off" at final size and just slightly sand the
faced-off side and glue them on..(Stack them on)
or does everyone skim-cut the face after they glue-on the Ring to insure a perpendicular
face for the next Ring?
Just to add,
I do this for all collars and stuff that I install on my cues..
Everything is faced-off after they are glued in place to insure all the connected pieces sit on a
perpendicular and parallel surface with 100% contact..***
I hate to hand sand the mating face and glue them on..
There is a chance the edges can be lower that the rest of the sanded face,
because of the basic nature of hand sanding things flat on a flat plate with sandpaper on it.


***I believe this is what Bill Schick was suggesting about George Balabuska's thinking,
and why George's cues were different from the rest in his era..
(Bill's interview in TAR's "2009 CUEMAKER'S ROUND TABLE" DVD)
Yes, among all the talking, there was many small tidbits that was mentioned..
And, We all missed out because Eric (Sugartree) didn't get a chance to tell us what makes his cues hit so good..



Alton < "Easier to be the 1st guy making something than the 2nd guy trying to copy the 1st guy.."


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 12, 2010 2:09 pm 
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[quote="Murray Tucker"]In this segment I'm going to show how trim rings are made. The first step is to cut slots in the base material. You can see how that is done in this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7HoAPYE4pbg

Ho hum. Ed Wheat already showed how this is done...


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 12, 2010 5:59 pm 
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cuecaps wrote:
I asumed everyone was working with fractional sizes,
1/16" , 1/8", etc.....
What I like to call "carpenter units." I'm still amazed how some of the carpenters I"ve met can do the math on these units so quickly.


cuecaps wrote:
When I was with Barry at '09 SBE, I asked and finally, I found out...
The cuemakers of those earlier years used thicknesses like .050" - .055" , .100"
.200" .350"....

These decimal units are what I like to call "machinist units." Every manufacturer in the world that works in English units uses (should be using) these style units.

I find it odd when certain architectural firms will use carpentar units when laying out buildings. But then again, they're not machinists or machining anything to such precision (in those particular cases).

Fred

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 12, 2010 6:42 pm 
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BarenbruggeCues wrote:
ScottR wrote:
It's funny, well not really, that I can see in that last picture that I made the brown phenolic too thick for both pieces. Guess I need to spring for better DRO or calipers, huh? :P

I was so worried about getting the slotted ring thickness right that I guess I didn't pay enough attention to the phenolic.

Scott <<== rank amateur


Scott, if the cap is still in it's present state in the last pix, it's a pretty easy fix to even the phenolic out.

Unfortunately, I already finished the set. I need to redo them anyway. Dohhh......

Scott

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 12, 2010 6:59 pm 
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ScottR wrote:
BarenbruggeCues wrote:
ScottR wrote:
It's funny, well not really, that I can see in that last picture that I made the brown phenolic too thick for both pieces. Guess I need to spring for better DRO or calipers, huh? :P

I was so worried about getting the slotted ring thickness right that I guess I didn't pay enough attention to the phenolic.

Scott <<== rank amateur


Scott, if the cap is still in it's present state in the last pix, it's a pretty easy fix to even the phenolic out.

Unfortunately, I already finished the set. I need to redo them anyway. Dohhh......

Scott


Redo the finish or redo the whole set of caps :?:

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 12, 2010 7:05 pm 
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ScottR wrote:
BarenbruggeCues wrote:
ScottR wrote:
It's funny, well not really, that I can see in that last picture that I made the brown phenolic too thick for both pieces. Guess I need to spring for better DRO or calipers, huh? :P

I was so worried about getting the slotted ring thickness right that I guess I didn't pay enough attention to the phenolic.

Scott <<== rank amateur


Scott, if the cap is still in it's present state in the last pix, it's a pretty easy fix to even the phenolic out.

Unfortunately, I already finished the set. I need to redo them anyway. Dohhh......

Scott


Surely there is a match here somewhere :

http://www.sharpie.com/

Dave <-- always trying to help out his friends


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 12, 2010 8:54 pm 
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BarenbruggeCues wrote:
ScottR wrote:
BarenbruggeCues wrote:
Scott, if the cap is still in it's present state in the last pix, it's a pretty easy fix to even the phenolic out.

Unfortunately, I already finished the set. I need to redo them anyway. Dohhh......

Scott


Redo the finish or redo the whole set of caps :?:

I want to remake the whole set of caps. They have other "rookie" issues.

They look decent from 10' away! :roll:

Scott

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 12, 2010 8:55 pm 
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davek wrote:
ScottR wrote:
BarenbruggeCues wrote:
Scott, if the cap is still in it's present state in the last pix, it's a pretty easy fix to even the phenolic out.

Unfortunately, I already finished the set. I need to redo them anyway. Dohhh......

Scott


Surely there is a match here somewhere :

http://www.sharpie.com/

Dave <-- always trying to help out his friends

Yer a funny man, Mr. K. :mrgreen:

Scott <<== wants to learn scrimshaw before sharpieshaw :mrgreen:

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 12, 2010 9:02 pm 
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ScottR wrote:
They look decent from 10' away! :roll:

Do they look like an abortion but cover like a rubber?

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