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PostPosted: Thu Aug 12, 2010 9:18 pm 
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 12, 2010 10:17 pm 
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New hobbyist questions:

1. where do I get the black/brown phenolics for joint collars to go along with the rings? What diameter and rod or tube? I assume you use one billet for both shaft and butt.

2. How deep do you cut the the slots?

3. How do you make/cut the thin inserts for the slots? Or do you buy them? Can you use veneers for this?

Most importantly, who's bright idea was it to use metal as rings? I can't stand them as most shrinkage/expansion seems to be really noticeable around the metal rings.

Hidy Ho <-- yes I already ordered Hightower book and videos and they are on UPS truck along with my indexible larger headstock and man .. I can really use the larger headstock (not on a lathe!!!) :oops:


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 13, 2010 12:13 am 
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Hidy Ho wrote:
New hobbyist questions:

1. where do I get the black/brown phenolics for joint collars to go along with the rings? What diameter and rod or tube? I assume you use one billet for both shaft and butt.

Prathers...Atlas first two places to start.

2. How deep do you cut the the slots?

First you have to determine the final OD size...next determine the ID size. Cut the slots deep enough so they don't go into the ID size and but yet deep enough that they'll be 2/3 deep from the OD size. You'll be good to go.

3. How do you make/cut the thin inserts for the slots? Or do you buy them? Can you use veneers for this?

You can use just about any thing that you want to fill the slots. The final size of what ever you use has to fit snug but not too tight to fill the slots. You can sand, mill, plane whatever works for you and the tools you have to get this fit. If you want assembler parts Prathers can help.

Most importantly, who's bright idea was it to use metal as rings? I can't stand them as most shrinkage/expansion seems to be really noticeable around the metal rings.

I think Al Gore started that.

Hidy Ho <-- yes I already ordered Hightower book and videos and they are on UPS truck along with my indexible larger headstock and man .. I can really use the larger headstock (not on a lathe!!!) :oops:


Atlas sells the phenolic by the foot...not sure about Prathers.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 13, 2010 2:19 am 
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Location: Near the Cascade Mountains
Recent I purchased some Phenolic double Black for both joint collars and butts. Normally I purchased this material from Atlas however, they were sold out of this material to include the Natural Phenolic.

I purchased the Natural joint material from Prather, and I purchased the Black for both the joint and butt from Schmelke do to better price.

Here are links to both:

Prather:

http://www.prathercue.com/

Schmelke:

http://www.schmelkecue.com/index.php?cP ... af45a5f060

Hope this helps



Hidy Ho wrote:
New hobbyist questions:

1. where do I get the black/brown phenolics for joint collars to go along with the rings? What diameter and rod or tube? I assume you use one billet for both shaft and butt.

2. How deep do you cut the the slots?

3. How do you make/cut the thin inserts for the slots? Or do you buy them? Can you use veneers for this?

Most importantly, who's bright idea was it to use metal as rings? I can't stand them as most shrinkage/expansion seems to be really noticeable around the metal rings.

Hidy Ho <-- yes I already ordered Hightower book and videos and they are on UPS truck along with my indexible larger headstock and man .. I can really use the larger headstock (not on a lathe!!!) :oops:

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 13, 2010 11:03 am 
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so how do you get the sharpie lines so straight without the ink bleeding into the surrounding wood. Hopefully an expert can chime in.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 13, 2010 11:17 am 
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Hidy Ho wrote:
New hobbyist questions:

1. where do I get the black/brown phenolics for joint collars to go along with the rings? What diameter and rod or tube? I assume you use one billet for both shaft and butt.

2. How deep do you cut the the slots?

3. How do you make/cut the thin inserts for the slots? Or do you buy them? Can you use veneers for this?

Most importantly, who's bright idea was it to use metal as rings? I can't stand them as most shrinkage/expansion seems to be really noticeable around the metal rings.

Hidy Ho <-- yes I already ordered Hightower book and videos and they are on UPS truck along with my indexible larger headstock and man .. I can really use the larger headstock (not on a lathe!!!) :oops:


I don't know about the others but I make my slots .1 to .120 deep. Complete butt is 3 different sizes on the rings.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 13, 2010 11:28 am 
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Michael Webb wrote:
I don't know about the others but I make my slots .1 to .120 deep. Complete butt is 3 different sizes on the rings.


I've been running into several cues where the slots are not cut deep enough. Once I take the finish off, the inlayed parts just fall off. Cut them as deep as you can. As Mike said, you need at least three different sizes of ring billets for a cue.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 13, 2010 12:59 pm 
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Location: Canada eh
chris byrne wrote:
so how do you get the sharpie lines so straight without the ink bleeding into the surrounding wood. Hopefully an expert can chime in.


I am an outstanding hobbyexpert-in-my-own-mind, although not at cuemaking, but may be able to help. The trick is holding eveything steady using the proper tools. Here is my setup.

Attachment:
sharpie-jig-2.jpg
sharpie-jig-2.jpg [ 35.85 KiB | Viewed 469 times ]


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 13, 2010 1:02 pm 
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davek wrote:
chris byrne wrote:
so how do you get the sharpie lines so straight without the ink bleeding into the surrounding wood. Hopefully an expert can chime in.


I am an outstanding hobbyexpert-in-my-own-mind, although not at cuemaking, but may be able to help. The trick is holding eveything steady using the proper tools. Here is my setup.

Attachment:
sharpie-jig-2.jpg


Dave

Man, some day I hope to have a Sharpie like that.

You guys showing off your tools/toys.....

Scott

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 13, 2010 1:26 pm 
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ScottR wrote:
Man, some day I hope to have a Sharpie like that.

You guys showing off your tools/toys.....

Scott


It is available for trade ... cost is one Herceck cue.

Dave <-- hoping, praying, and keeping all fingers and toes crossed


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 13, 2010 7:18 pm 
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davek wrote:
It is available for trade


It's gotta be worth at least a bundle of wheatbucks.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 13, 2010 8:03 pm 
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qbilder wrote:
davek wrote:
It is available for trade


It's gotta be worth at least a bundle of wheatbucks.


.... and so the negotiations begin :P

Dave


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 13, 2010 9:36 pm 
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davek wrote:
ScottR wrote:
Man, some day I hope to have a Sharpie like that.

You guys showing off your tools/toys.....

Scott


It is available for trade ... cost is one Herceck cue.

Dave <-- hoping, praying, and keeping all fingers and toes crossed

Yeah.......

Ummmmm.......

No......

Scott


Attachments:
IMG_0275s.JPG
IMG_0275s.JPG [ 81.52 KiB | Viewed 367 times ]

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 13, 2010 9:37 pm 
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Location: cincinnati ohio
ratcues wrote:
Michael Webb wrote:
I don't know about the others but I make my slots .1 to .120 deep. Complete butt is 3 different sizes on the rings.


I've been running into several cues where the slots are not cut deep enough. Once I take the finish off, the inlayed parts just fall off. Cut them as deep as you can. As Mike said, you need at least three different sizes of ring billets for a cue.


i make two sizes , 1.00 bored .625 & 1.29 bored .750
but i cut as deep as possible too, leaving about .050" , .030" for joint rings , from bottom of slot to hole
recently on az, some guy asked me why i cut them so deep,
when he saw a pic of the rings laying flat

he said the great cuemakers dont cut that deep
like it makes a fucking bit of difference?????????? :roll:
rather be deeper than not deep enuff , like what youre saying ryan

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 13, 2010 9:51 pm 
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BHQ wrote:
ratcues wrote:
Michael Webb wrote:
I don't know about the others but I make my slots .1 to .120 deep. Complete butt is 3 different sizes on the rings.


I've been running into several cues where the slots are not cut deep enough. Once I take the finish off, the inlayed parts just fall off. Cut them as deep as you can. As Mike said, you need at least three different sizes of ring billets for a cue.


i make two sizes , 1.00 bored .625 & 1.29 bored .750
but i cut as deep as possible too, leaving about .050" , .030" for joint rings , from bottom of slot to hole
recently on az, some guy asked me why i cut them so deep,
when he saw a pic of the rings laying flat

he said the great cuemakers dont cut that deep
like it makes a fucking bit of difference?????????? :roll:
rather be deeper than not deep enuff , like what youre saying ryan


I hear ya and Ryan too, I cut mine when the billet is .050 from finished size so at .120 deep, I'm in there just fine.


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