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PostPosted: Mon Aug 23, 2010 8:57 am 
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Location: Mis'sippi....dammit
I'm a visual kinda guy...

,
,

J...some of the pics have disappeared ???

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 23, 2010 9:03 am 
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I can still see them all.

Jack Flanagan wrote:
I'm a visual kinda guy...

,
,

J...some of the pics have disappeared ???

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 23, 2010 12:37 pm 
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"I will warn you that full sized knee mills like a Bridgeport are too tall for a standard garage door .... some very pissed-off-and-red-faced individuals on rec.crafts.metalworking told me .... OOOPS :evil: :oops: "

Just take the motor off, it will fit then.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 23, 2010 1:30 pm 
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Tommy Stanfill wrote:
"I will warn you that full sized knee mills like a Bridgeport are too tall for a standard garage door .... some very pissed-off-and-red-faced individuals on rec.crafts.metalworking told me .... OOOPS :evil: :oops: "

Just take the motor off, it will fit then.


That might get one in ..... or you could make a little one like this (not for you Scott, unless you want to put points in toothpicks) :

Attachment:
Jordan01m.jpg
Jordan01m.jpg [ 29.47 KiB | Viewed 740 times ]


( from http://www.craftsmanshipmuseum.com/jordan.htm ... WOW ! )

Dave


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 23, 2010 8:57 pm 
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davek wrote:
Tommy Stanfill wrote:
"I will warn you that full sized knee mills like a Bridgeport are too tall for a standard garage door .... some very pissed-off-and-red-faced individuals on rec.crafts.metalworking told me .... OOOPS :evil: :oops: "

Just take the motor off, it will fit then.


That might get one in ..... or you could make a little one like this (not for you Scott, unless you want to put points in toothpicks) :

Attachment:
Jordan01m.jpg


( from http://www.craftsmanshipmuseum.com/jordan.htm ... WOW ! )

Dave



Man that mini mill is sweet, an exact replica. You should be able to tilt the head 180* too after you lower the table, then it will fit right through the door.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 23, 2010 9:42 pm 
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Tommy Stanfill wrote:
"I will warn you that full sized knee mills like a Bridgeport are too tall for a standard garage door .... some very pissed-off-and-red-faced individuals on rec.crafts.metalworking told me .... OOOPS :evil: :oops: "

Just take the motor off, it will fit then.


You just have to take the entire head off the ram is all. I figure this what you meant but wanted to clarify as it's much easier than removing the motor by itself. Once you get the entire J head off if you need to you can slide the ram off also and move it right in. Most will fit a standard 7-6 door doing just the head though. When I built my shop I had to put a 9ft door because mines a rigid ram and they're a bit more of a pain in the A to deal with. 4500#'s of cast can be a bit for one man to slide around. Took all day and half the night to get it off the trailer, on the skates and in the shop, but gotRdun :!:

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 24, 2010 2:24 am 
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ok, question.
Would points that go all the way into the handle (attached before points are added) be considered LONG splice points?

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 24, 2010 6:41 am 
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SUPERSTAR wrote:
ok, question.
Would points that go all the way into the handle (attached before points are added) be considered LONG splice points?


Normaly when points run threw in the handle piece (under the wrap), these points are not
made like one wood - one point. Then they are all made from one piece of wood and put together
with the nose wood (forearm), and in that case, it would be a FULL SPLICE CONSTRUCTION.

I hope I didn´t say something wrong, but if I did I will get some verbal asskicks, for sure. :mrgreen:

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 24, 2010 7:35 am 
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I'm going to say since each point is a separate piece then it is a modified shor............sorry Fred..........half splice.

SUPERSTAR wrote:
ok, question.
Would points that go all the way into the handle (attached before points are added) be considered LONG splice points?

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 24, 2010 12:00 pm 
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SUPERSTAR wrote:
ok, question.
Would points that go all the way into the handle (attached before points are added) be considered LONG splice points?


You talking like Tony does them :?:

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 24, 2010 1:04 pm 
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Superstar, are you talking like this?

Scott


Attachments:
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 24, 2010 1:41 pm 
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BarenbruggeCues wrote:
SUPERSTAR wrote:
ok, question.
Would points that go all the way into the handle (attached before points are added) be considered LONG splice points?


You talking like Tony does them :?:


Well actually, Tony's cues are my only really strong frame of reference in regards to cuemaking. I watched him build my cue plus others and understand his specific process for pointed cues very well.
So to answer your question, YES.

But i know that there are other cuemakers that do them into the handle as well, so i figured to ask a generalized question.
I really don't want to come and hijack every thread with my "But Tony does them like THIS" input, but it almost feels like that is inevitable as he does do a lot of things differently from the norm.

ScottR wrote:
Superstar, are you talking like this?

Scott


That looks like one form of what i am talking about, but my questions would be, is the whole handle section included, and if so, are you going to sleeve a different wood over the handle section?

If the whole handle section is not included, are they going to get turned down into a piece that attaches to the handle, or chopped off. (the chopping off i would assume falls into the short spice category)

To give you guys an idea of what i am visualizing
http://www.blackboarcustomcues.com/desi ... D=112&IID=
If you go to the third picture, you will see the bottom of Tony's points, which eventually get turned down slightly to have the wrap placed over them and they then become a part of the handle.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 24, 2010 3:39 pm 
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I believe Tony's way of knifing in points are about as close as you can come to replicating a long(full) splice blank. The difference is the point stock is not part of the handle wood but is more like a large inlay the is applied after the handle and forearm construction is done. Doing so his way certainly eliminates the worry of an A buzz with the same theory as a long splice. Disadvantage is, unless you're doing inlaid ring work you can't slide any slotted rings on at that point of the cue. Not a problem for Tony because if he does any decoration in that section, he inlays it.
The picture Scott is showing is, I believe, is an extended forearm that will get buried back inside the handle which is basically just another way to construct your A joint with a short splice and has no similarities to the way Tony constructs his.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 24, 2010 7:27 pm 
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Thanks for the explanation.

In regards to rings (guess this should go into the ring section), i have seen Tony do rings that aren't in ring form, but instead, broken down into subsections of a complete ring to allow for expansion and contraction, that you can never tell once it's in the cue. Actually, i've seen a lot of goofy stuff at his place, but honestly, i really have no idea how to explain some of it. It's like way WAY out there.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 25, 2010 2:32 am 
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ScottR wrote:
Superstar, are you talking like this?

Scott


That ebony cue looks Hawt!

Jim<---Jimmy likey

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