RIP "Blud"

Another One Gone
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 11:04 am 
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Holy mother-of-GODZILLA-cutter!!!!

That monster mill is bigger than the forearm stock.

Scott :shock:

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 11:28 am 
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Okay...here comes another dumb one:

Once you get the "V" grooves cut in the forearm stock, and get the point/veneer blocks glued up and attached to the forearm...how in the hell to you even begin to cut off the excess material????

Knowing a little less than jack-s#it about machinery...it would seem to me that it would be pretty easy to mess this up and have the point/veneer blocks start splitting and cracking all to hell...sending high-speed wood shrapnel all over the shop.

Mark <---thinks you could put an eye out with one of those things

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 11:28 am 
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Murray Tucker wrote:
Thanks to those who helped out with pictures while I was on walkabout. Here are some steps to building a short spiced forearm.

First we put out forearm wood into a fixture that will allow us to index it to cut the desired number of points.

Image


If you are taking notes then write this down: In a short spiced blank EACH POINT IS A SEPARATE PIECE OF WOOD. Look at the end view and study it. 4 points, 4 INDIVIDUAL pieces.



Nice to see you found a good use for the little machine. :roll:


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 11:35 am 
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Band saw. That point stock has not been run through the saw yet. It will already be cut down a lot before it ever gets glued in.

8-ball Rat wrote:
Okay...here comes another dumb one:

Once you get the "V" grooves cut in the forearm stock, and get the point/veneer blocks glued up and attached to the forearm...how in the hell to you even begin to cut off the excess material????

Knowing a little less than jack-s#it about machinery...it would seem to me that it would be pretty easy to mess this up and have the point/veneer blocks start splitting and cracking all to hell...sending high-speed wood shrapnel all over the shop.

Mark <---thinks you could put an eye out with one of those things

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 11:38 am 
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It is only 1.25

ScottR wrote:
Holy mother-of-GODZILLA-cutter!!!!

That monster mill is bigger than the forearm stock.

Scott :shock:

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 12:29 pm 
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Murray, can I has? :mrgreen:

Looking great!

(cut excess point wood down on bandsaw until it looks like this so you can turn in a lathe)


Attachments:
z4 200.jpg
z4 200.jpg [ 121.94 KiB | Viewed 1280 times ]

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 12:52 pm 
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Thanks for the pictures Murray and especially thanks for a good basic explanation of what I am looking at. Unlike others here, I will never build a cue but I'm still learning a lot about what goes into one. Keep this stuff coming. It is great.

BTW, I don't know much about this stuff but I will go out on a limb and say that Murray's equipment may be a bit of over kill for cue making. :shock:

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 1:22 pm 
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Rich R. wrote:
Thanks for the pictures Murray and especially thanks for a good basic explanation of what I am looking at. Unlike others here, I will never build a cue but I'm still learning a lot about what goes into one. Keep this stuff coming. It is great.

BTW, I don't know much about this stuff but I will go out on a limb and say that Murray's equipment may be a bit of over kill for cue making. :shock:



Sssshhhhh,
I can use these pictures to justify to my wife why I need "all that big equipment"! :P


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 1:27 pm 
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Rich R. wrote:
Thanks for the pictures Murray and especially thanks for a good basic explanation of what I am looking at. Unlike others here, I will never build a cue but I'm still learning a lot about what goes into one. Keep this stuff coming. It is great.

BTW, I don't know much about this stuff but I will go out on a limb and say that Murray's equipment may be a bit of over kill for cue making. :shock:

One reason I quit trying to build forearms was that I didn't have heavy enough tools to do it right consistently. Murray's and others may look like overkill, but MAN would I love to have access to them.

Scott

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 1:55 pm 
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I-75 South about 7 hours.

ScottR wrote:
Murray's and others may look like overkill, but MAN would I love to have access to them.

Scott

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 2:12 pm 
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Murray Tucker wrote:

Image

If you are taking notes then write this down: In a short spiced blank EACH POINT IS A SEPARATE PIECE OF WOOD. Look at the end view and study it. 4 points, 4 INDIVIDUAL pieces.


Looking at that picture it seems the points and the veneers are going to be a big part of how the cue hits and plays no? THere doesn't seem to be that much of the forearm wood left at that point.

<n00b

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 3:19 pm 
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brooklynjay wrote:
Murray Tucker wrote:

Image

If you are taking notes then write this down: In a short spiced blank EACH POINT IS A SEPARATE PIECE OF WOOD. Look at the end view and study it. 4 points, 4 INDIVIDUAL pieces.


Looking at that picture it seems the points and the veneers are going to be a big part of how the cue hits and plays no? THere doesn't seem to be that much of the forearm wood left at that point.

<n00b


that's just cause you're looking at the wrong end, the other end is all maple.

Jim <------Has been on the wrong end of the blank before

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 3:21 pm 
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One thing I don't think Murray has addressed thus far is the reason why the points are pointy. The reason a point goes from wide to thin is because of the depth of the vgroove as well as the fact that the cue is tapered. Depth and taper are what makes the point, as far as legnth and width of the point.

Jim <---Point on top of his head
.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 3:39 pm 
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JimBo wrote:
One thing I don't think Murray has addressed thus far is the reason why the points are pointy. The reason a point goes from wide to thin is because of the depth of the vgroove as well as the fact that the cue is tapered. Depth and taper are what makes the point, as far as legnth and width of the point.

Jim <---Point on top of his head
.



The forearm is tapered at one angle and the point channels are tapered at a different angle. The combination of these two angles and the depth that the point angle is milled will determine the length of the point and the amount of mother wood between the veneers and point stock left at the A joint end of the fore.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 4:06 pm 
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radge69 wrote:
Rich R. wrote:
Thanks for the pictures Murray and especially thanks for a good basic explanation of what I am looking at. Unlike others here, I will never build a cue but I'm still learning a lot about what goes into one. Keep this stuff coming. It is great.

BTW, I don't know much about this stuff but I will go out on a limb and say that Murray's equipment may be a bit of over kill for cue making. :shock:



Sssshhhhh,
I can use these pictures to justify to my wife why I need "all that big equipment"! :P


I will warn you that full sized knee mills like a Bridgeport are too tall for a standard garage door .... some very pissed-off-and-red-faced individuals on rec.crafts.metalworking told me .... OOOPS :evil: :oops:

I was chatting with an old machinist at one of my brothers weddings, and I asked him about his machinery. He made the comment "you can do little work on big machines, but you cannot do big work on little machines".

Dave <-- has little machines


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