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 Post subject: Week 4: Full Splice
PostPosted: Tue Aug 24, 2010 7:40 am 
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Today we are going to show the components of a basic full spliced cue.

The first step is to cut a forearm the same way you would do a short splice.

Image

Now you have to take your point/butt wood and cut it to fit the forearm.

Image

Here are the pieces ready to go together.

Image

Here is another shot of them.

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Now they can be glued up.

Image

And here is the what the finished product looks like.

Image

And here is one with veneers.

Image

For those taking notes. A points on a full splice cue are one piece of wood whereas in a short splice they are individual.

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 Post subject: Re: Week 4: Full Splice
PostPosted: Wed Aug 25, 2010 7:48 am 
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And now a word from Joel Hercek:

Hello Murray:

I've attached a photo of four full splice handles still in their square form. The first three are Burt's, I have many unfinished handles Burt made for several cuemakers including George Balabushka. Burt supplied George with full splice blanks not short splices. The true definition of a full splice in cuemaking is when the point wood is an extension of the handle wood. In a four prong cue, all four prongs are cut from the same piece of handle wood and still co joined through the construction process to the finished cue. Burt would supply George and many other cuemakers at that time with full splice blanks although the length of the blank would be shorter then what we expect to see today in a full splice blank.
In the photo I've attached, you'll see two Rosewood handles, an Ebony and finally an Ebony and Maple handle with an extra splice. The Rosewood handles are 14", the Ebony handle is 20" and the other one is 23". All four would fall into the same category of full splices, no matter the length. Burt would splice the nose wood and veneers to the handle wood and send the blanks out as such. Most all the cuemakers at that time would take that blank and cut off the extra wood in the handle and use it for the back end of their cues. They then would attach their own handle to the cue with a tendon of some kind. (most likely a screw) They looked at it as getting a blank and a back end sleeve all built into one. George on the other hand would use all the wood, choosing not to cut off the extra wood. He would attach his handle much further down from the top of the wrap, this gave his cues a more solid hit since the handle joint was around the area you would grip the cue. In that aspect, George was ahead of his time, and Burt recognized this later in his career. You'll notice that most of the Balabushka cues made with Burt's blanks have no trim ring above the wrap and the later one's made with Szamboti blanks did have trim rings above the wrap because those later ones were short splices. I hope this information helps you some, if you have any further questions, please feel free to ask.

Best Regards

Joel Hercek

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 Post subject: Re: Week 4: Full Splice
PostPosted: Wed Aug 25, 2010 10:02 am 
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I am not a cue maker, I just love cues. Mr. Hercek has put together the best post that I have read about full splice cues. The pictures really help me understand what the heck was going on. Thanks Murray !!


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 Post subject: Re: Week 4: Full Splice
PostPosted: Wed Aug 25, 2010 10:16 am 
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Wow, very cool info. Image


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 Post subject: Re: Week 4: Full Splice
PostPosted: Wed Aug 25, 2010 11:02 am 
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Murray,

I really want to thank you for these threads. I love them!

Joel is a great guy and really knows his stuff on full splices. I used to talk to him on the phone quite a bit back when he was learning form Burton. I even built a few cues with his full splice blanks way back when. And no, I'm not going to say how far back that was! I'm old, but just won't admit it!

I've never built my own full splice, but would love to play with it some day. Oh well, too much to do right now and not enough time to do it.

Again, I love these threads!

Royce Bunnell
http://www.obcues.com

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 Post subject: Re: Week 4: Full Splice
PostPosted: Wed Aug 25, 2010 3:14 pm 
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This is a great series Murray. Thanks!
I have a question. It is about the veneered example. I assume the veneers are glued to the points extending out of the handle, not in the slot on the forearm. Is that correct?
Steve. <== wonders where he is on Mr. Hercek's list. :lol:

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 Post subject: Re: Week 4: Full Splice
PostPosted: Wed Aug 25, 2010 4:20 pm 
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Murray Tucker wrote:
Today we are going to show the components of a basic full spliced cue.


NOW we're talking cues :!:

Thanks Murray, great series (especially this one).

Dave <-- has two full splice cues on order, so he has that going for him, which is nice :mrgreen:


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 Post subject: Re: Week 4: Full Splice
PostPosted: Wed Aug 25, 2010 7:02 pm 
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awesome murray. i love the pictures and how they explain how a full splice is put together without it being too technical. now..can you go back and do 1-4 in the same manner? :mrgreen:

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 Post subject: Re: Week 4: Full Splice
PostPosted: Wed Aug 25, 2010 7:25 pm 
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good job, Murray !

,
,

J...always learning something new.

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 Post subject: Re: Week 4: Full Splice
PostPosted: Thu Aug 26, 2010 8:17 am 
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Catscradle wrote:
This is a great series Murray. Thanks!
I have a question. It is about the veneered example. I assume the veneers are glued to the points extending out of the handle, not in the slot on the forearm. Is that correct?
Steve. <== wonders where he is on Mr. Hercek's list. :lol:

Steve, I believe there are multiple ways to assemble the parts.

- Attach the veneers to the handle/points first, then attach that assembly to the forearm
- Attach the veneers into the forearm v-grooves, then attach the handle/points into that
- Assemble all three components together at the same time

Hopefully, the cue makers that have done these will chime in with other methods, and the pros and cons of each.

Scott <<== thinking out loud and could be wrong

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 Post subject: Re: Week 4: Full Splice
PostPosted: Thu Aug 26, 2010 8:20 am 
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Hmmmm.......

Was just considering how the dimensions of the forearm v-grooves, handle/point angles and depths and the thickenesses of the veneers would really result in making a full-splice with veneers "kinda" challenging.

Scott <<== trying to do the math

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 Post subject: Re: Week 4: Full Splice
PostPosted: Thu Aug 26, 2010 8:58 am 
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To answer a few questions. The veneers are mitered (more on that in another segment) and fit between the point stock and the forearm. I install everything at once and wrap it with my big rubber band to squeeze it together. The other difficult part is that the veneers also have to be feather from full thickness to half of the dimension at the base of the points. Lots of angles for figure out or the end result is not pretty.

Image

Image

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 Post subject: Re: Week 4: Full Splice
PostPosted: Thu Aug 26, 2010 9:10 am 
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This is great stuff, Murray. I'm sure the pictures clear up a lot of questions from a ton of people.

<-- thinks FS is easier than SS. After all, it's fewer pieces, right? :mrgreen:

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 Post subject: Re: Week 4: Full Splice
PostPosted: Thu Aug 26, 2010 11:38 am 
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Attachment:
fronts-1.jpg
fronts-1.jpg [ 47.94 KiB | Viewed 1082 times ]


some butterfly fronts

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 Post subject: Re: Week 4: Full Splice
PostPosted: Thu Aug 26, 2010 11:40 am 
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Jake wrote:
Attachment:
fronts-1.jpg


some butterfly fronts

Is that from Fanelli's shop?

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