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PostPosted: Tue Aug 24, 2010 7:44 am 
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This week we will be looking at mitered veneers (the ones where the seam goes down the middle, hopefully).

This method requires you to glue up the colored veneers, miter them at exactly the right angle and then glue them together again.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 23, 2010 3:18 pm 
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............

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 24, 2010 8:45 am 
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Murray, I have an 88 degree saw blade that was used long ago for cutting the miters. Is this profile better than 90 degrees?


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 24, 2010 10:30 am 
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depends on if you are breaking your veneers or cutting all the way through and pieceing them back together..

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 24, 2010 10:32 am 
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Murray, would you mind sharing what method you are using to cut the miter and why? i'm sure you have probably experimented with every way in the book.

I realize this is not the "ask the cuemaker" section so if i'm out of line then i'm sorry.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 24, 2010 5:32 pm 
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Jake wrote:
Murray, would you mind sharing what method you are using to cut the miter and why? i'm sure you have probably experimented with every way in the book.

I realize this is not the "ask the cuemaker" section so if i'm out of line then i'm sorry.

I'm with you. Without further explanation I don't understand how this is done.
Of course maybe it is just too tough to explain without being hands on.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 24, 2010 7:01 pm 
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I'll get pictures up that will clear a few things up. Just been a bit busy.

Sent from my ADR6300 using Tapatalk

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 24, 2010 7:42 pm 
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Not the talky tappy again............. :arrow: :roll:

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 24, 2010 9:55 pm 
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Are they are cut at a 45 then glued together making the 90? I believe that would give the straight line in the point.
Got a super close up?


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 25, 2010 1:45 am 
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Tommy Stanfill wrote:
Murray, I have an 88 degree saw blade that was used long ago for cutting the miters. Is this profile better than 90 degrees?


I read once that there was someone who cut their points at 105 degrees. That way they could touch the bottoms and not go as deep. I think it was in the BB....but as usual I can't remember.

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 25, 2010 1:53 am 
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BarenbruggeCues wrote:
Tommy Stanfill wrote:
Murray, I have an 88 degree saw blade that was used long ago for cutting the miters. Is this profile better than 90 degrees?


I read once that there was someone who cut their points at 105 degrees. That way they could touch the bottoms and not go as deep. I think it was in the BB....but as usual I can't remember.

Some dude named Tom Migliore.
You might know him.
You's gettin' old. :lol: :x

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 25, 2010 3:32 am 
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JoeyInCali wrote:
BarenbruggeCues wrote:
Tommy Stanfill wrote:
Murray, I have an 88 degree saw blade that was used long ago for cutting the miters. Is this profile better than 90 degrees?


I read once that there was someone who cut their points at 105 degrees. That way they could touch the bottoms and not go as deep. I think it was in the BB....but as usual I can't remember.

Some dude named Tom Migliore.
You might know him.
You's gettin' old. :lol: :x


Naw...it wasn't Tommie. I'd have remembered if it was him. I don't think the guy's building anymore. Now you're gonna make me go look it up and I wanna go take a nap. :arrow: :cry:

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 25, 2010 9:12 am 
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Rich,
I would post pics, but not being a cue maker and all...... In any case, here are some methods I played around with.

- After glueing the veneers into ~ 12" x 12" sheets, they are cut into strips; say ~ .75" x 12" rectangles.
- Using some sort of jig to hold these strips, you run each one along a cutter that creates a 45 degree bevel along one edge. That 45 degrees is not set in stone, as Tommie and Dave imply above. The cutter can be a saw blade, router bit or a sander; probably others as well.
- Another method for cutting the bevel is to make the strips double-wide (~ 1.5") and, again using a jig to hold them, running them length-wise (at the strip's mid-point) across a specially ground table saw blade. This blade has the teeth ground to give you an approximately 90 degree "V" cut down the middle.
- Two strips are glued together, matching the 45 degree bevels to give you the 90 degree, L-shape veneer component that Murray posted above. Using the table saw method above, the veneers are sometimes not cut entirely through and you fold them together (with glue) to form the 90 degree shape.

One reason for the variation from 45/90 degrees on the miter is getting a perfect, gap-less fit with the miters, point wood and forearm v-groove. Theoretically, if all components were on perfect squares, 45/90 would work. But some people have had better luck varying that somewhat.

Bob Dzuricky has several fine links showing his point building process, along with great photography. Check them out.

http://www.dzcues.com/point_blanks.htm

Scott

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 25, 2010 1:33 pm 
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Man, I never, never get tired of seeing this type of stuff. :mrgreen: Although I don't aspire to be a cuemaker, I have much respect for those that do. So Murray, when do you plan on show us non-aspiring cuemakers how you do re-cut point and full-splice cues> :P :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 26, 2010 8:59 am 
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Hey Murray - more info - I didn´t catch it until now :shock:

In the thread from the overlapped veneers are pics where its possible to imagine the whole process.
You are able to see how the veneers are glued to the point wood, and how they are cut, but here I
can see nothing.
It´s realy hard to imagine how the veneers got together to that V form in the second pic, because
I think that would be the interesting part and the explanation for the straight lines, or am I wrong :shock:

As I am not a cuemaker, only a dumb collector and stupid european - I NEED MORE INFO and PICS :mrgreen:

Eric"h"

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