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PostPosted: Wed Dec 21, 2011 7:22 pm 
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Murray:
First: Thanks for sharing this info. Got a couple of questions. Why the rubber band? Does the core want to walk out? What kind of clearance do you have between the core and the bore hole? I was surprised that you use the polyurethane. Is there any concern with the expansion splitting the sleeve?

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 21, 2011 8:10 pm 
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There are a few makers who do a one piece core. Bob Flynn of Denali cues comes to mind.

Catscradle wrote:
Thanks for the informative thread.
One question, is a cue ever cored for the whole length of the butt? That is, one piece core that goes through the forearm, handle, and butt sleeve. No idea why anyone would want to do that. Just wondering if it was ever done.



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PostPosted: Wed Dec 21, 2011 8:14 pm 
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I honestly can't answer your question about why some makers are against coring. I've never talked to anyone about it before. There are plenty on here hopefully they will chime in.

I think that it is not a good idea to core woods that are stable and known to be great hitting. Sticking a maple core in a piece of Brazilian rosewood or purpleheart really does not make sense to me.

wyattearp wrote:
When and why is it NOT a good idea to core? Why do a good number of cuemakers not core and are adamantly against it?
They aren't newbies, hacks, or lack equipment by any stretch of the imagination.

I'm just glad I never got into making cues to have to buy all the lathes, drills, and other equipment. I did have a shop vac though. :mrgreen: Interesting thread.



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PostPosted: Wed Dec 21, 2011 8:29 pm 
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Yeah, they tend to want to push out so I put the rubber band on them. It is patent pending. Not sure of the exact clearance. I just tune until I the pieces fit with just a little resistance. The glue relief let's the excess foam out. I've band sawed several test pieces and the bond has been perfect. Never had one split but I do cut the relief spiral.

RogerO wrote:
Murray:
First: Thanks for sharing this info. Got a couple of questions. Why the rubber band? Does the core want to walk out? What kind of clearance do you have between the core and the bore hole? I was surprised that you use the polyurethane. Is there any concern with the expansion splitting the sleeve?

thanks,
Roger



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PostPosted: Thu Dec 22, 2011 5:04 am 
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Catscradle wrote:
Thanks for the informative thread.
One question, is a cue ever cored for the whole length of the butt? That is, one piece core that goes through the forearm, handle, and butt sleeve. No idea why anyone would want to do that. Just wondering if it was ever done.


Steve I know Murray probably already answered this, but I have not gotten that far. Keep in mind I am not a cue maker, your idea has been done, and is still being done. But it (IMO of course) defeats the purpose. Many things in cuemaking (core, attaching a handle, 2 piece cue) are done to reduce the size of the wood, I believe the thought is that small pieces of wood are less likely to warp then a straight shot. So if you were to core the whole section you'd have one 28 inch piece that may want to bend a little.

Jim<---Just one uneducated man's thought

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 22, 2011 5:10 am 
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wyattearp wrote:
When and why is it NOT a good idea to core? Why do a good number of cuemakers not core and are adamantly against it?
They aren't newbies, hacks, or lack equipment by any stretch of the imagination.

I'm just glad I never got into making cues to have to buy all the lathes, drills, and other equipment. I did have a shop vac though. :mrgreen: Interesting thread.


Bill I for one do not like a cored cue. Part of the reason is because I don't just like the way Purpleheart looks, but I like it's other characteristics as far as a playing cue. I like it's density, I like it's tone and I like the fact that it's a straight grained wood. I feel that many makers like their cues to play consistant, but if that consistant isn't to my taste then why would I want it. So if I run across a guy who wants to core I will ask that he core the cue with Purpleheart. (don't go there)
So to answer the question, one might not core an ebony nose cue if the buyer wants a heavy balance forward cue that hits like ebony.

Jim <---Knows that different woods hit DIFFERENT

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 22, 2011 8:28 am 
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Murray Tucker wrote:
Yeah, they tend to want to push out so I put the rubber band on them. It is patent pending. Not sure of the exact clearance. I just tune until I the pieces fit with just a little resistance. The glue relief let's the excess foam out. I've band sawed several test pieces and the bond has been perfect. Never had one split but I do cut the relief spiral.

RogerO wrote:
Murray:
First: Thanks for sharing this info. Got a couple of questions. Why the rubber band? Does the core want to walk out? What kind of clearance do you have between the core and the bore hole? I was surprised that you use the polyurethane. Is there any concern with the expansion splitting the sleeve?

thanks,
Roger


Thanks Murray. Your "little resistance" answered my clearance question. I had been wondering if you left room for glue expansion. Sounds like you don't need to. I'm bummed about your answer to the rubber band question as I was going to use it to apply for my patent. I notice that you favor a left handed wrap with the band. Does your patent application also cover right handed?

Roger - hoping to be able to salvage something from my investment with those late night invention infomercial guys.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 22, 2011 8:56 am 
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Since the end result is tapered what would you estimate the thin part of the outer "shell" measures versus the fat part near the A joint? And therefore is it possible/feasible to make a tapered core?

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 22, 2011 9:15 am 
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The problem isn't the tapered core it is making a tapered hole that deep.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 22, 2011 10:04 am 
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i doubt murray is going to cut one apart for you to see the inside
so, here ya go
cut the butterfly into this african blackwood forearm
you can see the "glue grabber grooves"

what you cant see ,
is the horizontal grooves cut into the core lengthwise for a glue relief
why the glue relief grooves?
because this core does not go all the way thru the end of the blackwood
it's only cored 7" deep
why? because it's a .750" hole & i dont want that thin of a wall thickness of the blackwood at or near the joint
if i was using a .625" gun drill, which what i think murray is using on the fronts,
i could go all the way thru

.625" gun drill is on my christmas wish list (actually .635" :wink: )

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 22, 2011 10:10 am 
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Thanks for the info, Brent and Murray. Makes sense now that I think about it.

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Last edited by ScottR on Thu Dec 22, 2011 3:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 22, 2011 10:14 am 
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Steve,

Joel Hercek also uses one of his full splice, veneered blanks for the "core" of his cues where he is doing a lot of inlaying on the forearm. Here is a link to an example of the type of cue I'm talking about.

http://www.cornerstonecues.com/cue557.htm

That cue has a full splice blank as its core and the ebony is sleeved over the front, covering the points.

Scott

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 22, 2011 1:23 pm 
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I have a feeling that Murray inspires jealousy and bitterness whenever other cuemakers see his machinery (that's not innuendo, btw) lol.

I wonder if the glue relief type makes any difference. Wouldn't threading the core subtly be the most "stable"? You could put lengthwise relief lines on the inner wall of the forearm or handle. I'm sure modern glues these days will last several lifetimes, so it's probably totally unnecessary, but my brain tells me threading would be best. I know squat about cue construction, so excuse me if these are dumb questions lol.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 22, 2011 1:27 pm 
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Catscradle wrote:
Thanks for the informative thread.
One question, is a cue ever cored for the whole length of the butt? That is, one piece core that goes through the forearm, handle, and butt sleeve. No idea why anyone would want to do that. Just wondering if it was ever done.


The only one that i can think of off the top of my head is Dominiak, and then you have Tony BB's core design, where the buttsleeve and forearm are cored, and sleeved on in front of and in back of the handle area which is regular size (which means that there is one piece that runs the whole length.

Probably more examples out there.


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 22, 2011 1:47 pm 
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thepavlos wrote:
And therefore is it possible/feasible to make a tapered core?

there are a couple of guys who have spent mega money on 30" long custom tapered reamers, so that the wall thickness is consistent the length of the cue.

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