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PostPosted: Thu Dec 22, 2011 3:33 pm 
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Catscradle wrote:
Thanks for the informative thread.
One question, is a cue ever cored for the whole length of the butt? That is, one piece core that goes through the forearm, handle, and butt sleeve. No idea why anyone would want to do that. Just wondering if it was ever done.


A handful of cuemakers do this. Bob Owens' (Shurtz Cue) version are his best hitting cues, IMO.

Freddie

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 22, 2011 3:39 pm 
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wyattearp wrote:
When and why is it NOT a good idea to core? Why do a good number of cuemakers not core and are adamantly against it?
.

My interviews tell me that many cuemakers aren't interested in making all of their cues feel like maple (for example). And some didn't want to lighten up ebony, etc. South West to the best of my knowledge doesn't core, so when you hear guys with their SW's, you often will hear someone want to play with specifically a Goncola Alves SW or a Purpleheart SW.

Freddie

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 22, 2011 4:23 pm 
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There are some that do a tapered core and the wall thickness of the outer wood is the same at both ends.


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 24, 2011 10:19 am 
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Cornerman wrote:
wyattearp wrote:
When and why is it NOT a good idea to core? Why do a good number of cuemakers not core and are adamantly against it?
.

My interviews tell me that many cuemakers aren't interested in making all of their cues feel like maple (for example). And some didn't want to lighten up ebony, etc. South West to the best of my knowledge doesn't core, so when you hear guys with their SW's, you often will hear someone want to play with specifically a Goncola Alves SW or a Purpleheart SW.

Freddie



I have also heard (on forums) that SW as well of other CM's have experienced warpage in the forearm when an uncored cue travels to an environment with high humidity. I have seen several really nice and expensive cues that have a bump in the forearm when rolled. You don't see that in a fully cored butt. I am not saying that it can't happen, it's just that it is not as likely.

Kim

Kim


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 03, 2012 7:19 pm 
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Catscradle wrote:
Thanks for the informative thread.
One question, is a cue ever cored for the whole length of the butt? That is, one piece core that goes through the forearm, handle, and butt sleeve. No idea why anyone would want to do that. Just wondering if it was ever done.

Yes. I make my plain non pointed cues that way

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2012 12:14 am 
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ScottR wrote:
Just to make sure my pea brain has it.....

You drill, bore, then gun drill to final size?

If that is right, how much undersize to you bore to? I always assumed the gun drill did the bulk of the work, but it looks like you are using it to fine tune to your finished result.

Also, it looks like your core dowel is not perfectly smooth. Is that to provide a mechanical bond in addition to the adhesive bond of the glue?

Thanks again for posting these. I really need to get down your way and learn a few tricks.

Scott


For gun drilling, as mentioned you can drill and bore a prep hole that is at least the diameter of the gun drill long, or in production gun drilling, use a precision bush/ guide. With the guide, a prep hole is not required. The guide must be aligned with the gun drill, and in the case of a stationary drill with a rotating part like in a lathe, the guide must be true to the lathe axis.
Neil Lickfold


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2012 12:21 am 
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Hello,

I would like to throw my two cents into Gun Drilling...

It is a process that can be easily accomplished with the correct process and tooling, I have a customer Gun drilling large connecting rods in forged steel .236" dia. x 36" deep, this is performed every day and the key is the process, tooling, keeping the tool cool and flushing the chips out of the hole.

Here are two excellent sites on Gun Drilling: Gundrilling Solutions and a Flute Maker explaining Gun Drilling Ebony Flute Bodies.

http://www.gundrillingsolutions.com/index.html
http://www.mcgee-flutes.com/making.html


Regards,

BBC


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 27, 2012 5:05 pm 
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This is probably a stupid question, but here it goes....

If a butt is Rosewood, would it make sense to core it with Rosewood instead of maple or some other wood?

Would that allow the cue to retain the same (or closer) "feel" as if it was a solid uncored piece of Rosewood but still retain the benefits of coring such as stability?


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 27, 2012 5:30 pm 
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MBTaylor wrote:
This is probably a stupid question, but here it goes....

If a butt is Rosewood, would it make sense to core it with Rosewood instead of maple or some other wood?

Would that allow the cue to retain the same (or closer) "feel" as if it was a solid uncored piece of Rosewood but still retain the benefits of coring such as stability?



A purest might think and do exactly that.

I for one cannot tell the difference of the hit between a cored or uncored cue butt. I can't tell the difference in the hit between rosewood, maple, paduak, or another wood in the butt when I hit with it. I can't tell the difference in the hit between a 3/8-10 pin, a 5/6-18 pin, a G10 pin, or any other pin.

I don't think the butt wood has that much of a different feel no matter what it is.

But that's just me..........

Show me proof ........

I think most of the hit and feel is in the tip and ferrule and then the shaft.

Kim


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 28, 2012 9:08 am 
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whammo57 wrote:
MBTaylor wrote:
This is probably a stupid question, but here it goes....

If a butt is Rosewood, would it make sense to core it with Rosewood instead of maple or some other wood?

Would that allow the cue to retain the same (or closer) "feel" as if it was a solid uncored piece of Rosewood but still retain the benefits of coring such as stability?



A purest might think and do exactly that.

I for one cannot tell the difference of the hit between a cored or uncored cue butt. I can't tell the difference in the hit between rosewood, maple, paduak, or another wood in the butt when I hit with it. I can't tell the difference in the hit between a 3/8-10 pin, a 5/6-18 pin, a G10 pin, or any other pin.

I don't think the butt wood has that much of a different feel no matter what it is.

But that's just me..........

Show me proof ........

I think most of the hit and feel is in the tip and ferrule and then the shaft.

Kim


You want believe it, but I think you are 100 percent right, Kim :lol:
I am not a cuemaker, and don´t have much clue about building that awesome firewood,
but I read an article from a cuemaker some time ago and there is written :

80 to 90 percent of the different feeling in the hit comes from the TIP and FERRULE.
The rest 10 to 20 percent is the shaft wood and the joint, and thats it. :shock:

As said before, I am not a cuemaker, but I would like to hear what our fellow cuemakers
around here think about this estimation :?:

Eric"h" ----- feels a big difference between steel, phenolic and ivory joints :mrgreen:

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 28, 2012 10:54 am 
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I'm in the purist camp. If you notice I cored rosewood with rosewood and purpleheart with purpleheart. Some are into the blending and that is all good also. It is just not what I do.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 28, 2012 2:42 pm 
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mair23 wrote:
whammo57 wrote:
MBTaylor wrote:
This is probably a stupid question, but here it goes....

If a butt is Rosewood, would it make sense to core it with Rosewood instead of maple or some other wood?

Would that allow the cue to retain the same (or closer) "feel" as if it was a solid uncored piece of Rosewood but still retain the benefits of coring such as stability?



A purest might think and do exactly that.

I for one cannot tell the difference of the hit between a cored or uncored cue butt. I can't tell the difference in the hit between rosewood, maple, paduak, or another wood in the butt when I hit with it. I can't tell the difference in the hit between a 3/8-10 pin, a 5/6-18 pin, a G10 pin, or any other pin.

I don't think the butt wood has that much of a different feel no matter what it is.

But that's just me..........

Show me proof ........

I think most of the hit and feel is in the tip and ferrule and then the shaft.

Kim


You want believe it, but I think you are 100 percent right, Kim :lol:
I am not a cuemaker, and don´t have much clue about building that awesome firewood,
but I read an article from a cuemaker some time ago and there is written :

80 to 90 percent of the different feeling in the hit comes from the TIP and FERRULE.
The rest 10 to 20 percent is the shaft wood and the joint, and thats it. :shock:

As said before, I am not a cuemaker, but I would like to hear what our fellow cuemakers
around here think about this estimation :?:

Eric"h" ----- feels a big difference between steel, phenolic and ivory joints :mrgreen:



I don't argue with people that claim to "feel" a difference, maybe they actually do or maybe then have been drinking the grape kool aid and bought into the hype that sales people often use. I honestly don't know.

I personally think it is right up there with Santa Claus and the Easter Bunny.

I know an elk master tip feels like there is a big pillow on the end of the shaft and a triangle feels like a piece of rock. I don't buy into LD shafts. I personally (I say personally as not to offend believers) don't think they actually offer any advantage. If they did, all cues would have one..... well? wouldn't they? I believe that joint screws have served their purpose once the 2 pieces a screwed together tightly and offer no other "feel".

Here is where I probably am a hypocrite as I think a metal joint gives a dead hit and don't like them. (maybe I just don't like the look)......

just my opinion.......\

Kim

Kim


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 29, 2012 9:16 am 
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A quick bump/question for the purists:
What is your standard core when dealing with burls and other less-stable woods? If I'm asking for a PJ with a desert ironwood burl handle, would you core with desert ironwood or a lighter wood to maintain balance?

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 29, 2012 3:41 pm 
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Hierovision wrote:
A quick bump/question for the purists:
What is your standard core when dealing with burls and other less-stable woods? If I'm asking for a PJ with a desert ironwood burl handle, would you core with desert ironwood or a lighter wood to maintain balance?



Stop asking public questions, you already have a cuemaker selected for your project, you need to be talking with him to see what he is comfortable doing and how he likes to work. Some guys like straight grained maple, some used a laminated dowel for extra stability, I personally want Purpleheart, sometimes weight plays a roll. But in the end the guy you picked for the job might have his own choices based on his comfort level and how he does things and he might not like to do something that some clown on an internet forum decides is best for you.

Jim <-----Thinks you choose a qualified maker and then discuss details with him and ask questions, let him do what he does.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 29, 2012 4:21 pm 
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What I'm asking has nothing to do with Ryan other than he's a cuemaker.

I'm exploring the coring philosophy of any cuemaker that will answer. Will they core a heavy wood (like ironwood) with a light wood (like maple) to maintain balance, or core with the same heavy wood while compensating with the joint configuration instead to maintain the "purist" method?

I still need to have a conversation with Ryan about the specifics, but I'm not going to insist he does something to compromise his comfort. He knows how to say no. He did when I first asked for a ferrule-less shaft a few years ago lol. If he's not comfortable, he won't do it.

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