RIP "Dickie" Neighbors

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I am in a very very small group of people that can buy any cue they want that can make that statement.
Congrats,
Nick Serdula

First!

Mike, I've always considered points and veneers to be the foundational element of traditional cues. I strongly prefer to see fat, deep points with little gapage between them (I also like to see veneers that line up to its corresponding veneer in adjacent points, or come close to it, but that's another thread!) My question is, how hard is it to achieve this when building traditional 4-point cues?

I've also seen two ways this is generally accomplished: deep points and wide points. Can you elaborate on the differences in these two techniques?

Thanks,
roger

yakem to da flakem booty yakum....... do you speak jive?


now for the important question is my cue done yet?

take care.

Mike first I want to thank you (in advance) for taking time out to answer these questions.

1) I feel like paying your dues doing lots of repair work is the best way to *understand* cues and to turn you into a true cuemaker, can you give some examples of what things you've learned by paying your dues as a repairman??

2) In your opinion what is the most important part of the cue when we are talking about the *HIT*?

Jim <----Thanks Mike[/color][/b][/quote]


Hi Jim
Thank you for inviting me, I'm honored.
One of the most important things I have ever learned about different cues is simple but not easy for a lot of people, Accept why and how something was done instead of condeming why it was done.
My opinion on hit is to use good seasoned wood. Don't assume just because you paid -X- amount of dollars for the wood that it's good because it may not be. Time will be the judge.

Hi Roger
I to like the traditional cues, Set up is the key, I know of 4 ways to accomplish them, Table saw, Lathe, milling machine and CNC. I still use a lathe with an index head along with a 1/2" router, 1" Vee cutting bit. I use to use a 1/4" router but found I couldn't do the wider points I wanted to have because of vibration. The two most important style machines I have are table saws and an accurate lathe. Important for repeatability. Quality veneer stock plays a very important role in consistancy along with proper gluing techniques.

Regretfully, no to all the above.

Hey buddy,

My question also deals with hit. I have hit with many of your cues, different joints, woods, etc... and they all play relatively similar. Can you share a little of how this accomplished?

Also, your points/veneers are now some of the best in cuemaking. What are you doing now to consistently get them so even and sharp?

Thanks,
Koop

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Cue: Mike Webb

hi mike!

there seems to be a lot of people who are interested in becoming a cue maker. what would be your advice to them?

thanks!

Jay

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buddha shows love to:

Mezz Cues USA
Kurzweils' Country Meats

Since I pick your brain all of the time, I'll try to stick to general questions.

1. Do you have a favorite wood to work with? Least favorite?
2. Finishing or shafts, which is harder?
3. About how many cues do you make in a year?
4. Do you have any plans for changes to your cues, construction or looks-wise?
5. How much coffee do you drink in a 24 hour period?

Scott <<== will get a peek at the Webb shop some day....oh yes I will

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This space for rent

Hi Dave, Table saw, jointer and sander.

Unfortunately bad subject with me in today's society of Internet, Not many understand the learning curve, everyone wants it now. I will probably take the most heat for saying to Cue makers, if you can't sell a cue, might as well, sell a video. Instead of answering questions with logical questions to make serious people think, they try to provide quick and easy answers. BAD TEACHING.

I like friends but I don't like company.

Hi Mike
Do you ever have annoying "customers" who talk too much and come over at odd times? How do you handle such people?
Paul

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A common mistake that people make when trying to design something completely foolproof was to underestimate the ingenuity of complete fools. -Douglas Adams
If anyone asks I'm claiming deniable plausibility
My name is Paul and I approve of this message

Mr. Webb,

Do you place much stock in the different grades of maple wood?

Which grade do you use for your shafts?

The Woim

Mr. Webb,

Recut vs. veneers ... any preference and pros and cons of each (if any)? I personally like recut points .. they are way more purdy than veneers. I've heard that reason veneers were used was to create a stiffer forearm????

Also, will you ever divulge your low deflection shaft ideal? Failing that, will you just send me one?