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Hope There is a Pool Table in Heaven
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 25, 2010 8:47 am 
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I'm out of town, but I had access to these photos of some inlays in progress. I first inlaid the Dice and Blank Cards then turned it round again, leaving an indexing hole in the center of each card. Then cut the pockets in the cards for the other inlays. The second photo with the pen is just to give some perspective as to how small those A's were. The red ones were cut from Pink Ivory and the black ones were cut from Ebony. No filler or colored epoxy was used anywhere in the cue. The dots in the Dice are also Ebony.



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PostPosted: Thu Nov 25, 2010 9:59 am 
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Tony Zinzola wrote:
I'm out of town, but I had access to these photos of some inlays in progress. I first inlaid the Dice and Blank Cards then turned it round again, leaving an indexing hole in the center of each card. Then cut the pockets in the cards for the other inlays. The second photo with the pen is just to give some perspective as to how small those A's were. The red ones were cut from Pink Ivory and the black ones were cut from Ebony. No filler or colored epoxy was used anywhere in the cue. The dots in the Dice are also Ebony.



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Nice work Tony, as always!

When you cut the A's did you rotate the cue to index for them, or just make a Y move to their location and cut on the side of the curve?

What depth of cut for the A's, and what diameter cutter did you use?


Again, nice work!


Royce Bunnell
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 25, 2010 10:18 am 
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I don't think I rotated for them, but I moved over to the inside edges and zero'd out the Z Axis there. They would have only been .040" deep. .010" cutters were used. That was the reason for turning the cue down after installing the blank cards. That way I was sure I was deep enough in the Ivory. The cue was at finished size (before sanding) at that point.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 25, 2010 11:39 am 
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Fantastic work and pictures, Tony.
Thanks for these ones and your explanations.
Happy TG,

Eric"h"

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 25, 2010 1:28 pm 
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Tony Zinzola wrote:
I don't think I rotated for them, but I moved over to the inside edges and zero'd out the Z Axis there. They would have only been .040" deep. .010" cutters were used. That was the reason for turning the cue down after installing the blank cards. That way I was sure I was deep enough in the Ivory. The cue was at finished size (before sanding) at that point.



Thanks Tony

That's kind of what I figured.

Rotating the cue would give you more depth to work with, but you would have to trig out the amount to turn the cue to get the inlays exactly where you want them. With .040", you have plenty of room so it makes sense to just move the Y axis over.


Thanks!

Royce Bunnell
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877-399-9901

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 26, 2010 9:54 am 
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Nice Job Tony.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 28, 2010 7:17 pm 
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Thanks Murray.
Tony, I think you'd make a hell of a watch maker.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 03, 2011 6:43 pm 
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Basic CAD drawing! Inlay pocket.

An old post that I put in another forum a long time ago.... thought some here might like to see it.

I did the initial pocket with an .03, not an .05 because the diamond was small. I usually do .05 to save time pocketing. The .03 leaves less to clean up in the tip pockets though, so it's worth it if the pocket isn't too big, to save making the .02 work too hard.

The red and green lines are the drawing, the blue lines are the cut paths.
Pocket with .03, then I do the .02 straight up into the corners, then the tiny pockets at the tips, then a cleanup pass all the way around. I leave about .003 on the sides with the .05, so the .02 is just barely cutting on the cleanup path. The little pockets at the tips are also offset a couple of thousandths, allowing the cleanup pass to cut material all the way around, for a nice clean pocket.

Pocket .03 F25.
Contour straight lines at tips .02 F6. (2 steps)
Mini pockets at tips .02 F6. (2 steps)
Contour entire shape .02 F12.

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 11, 2011 10:22 am 
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hmmmm..............

does anybody think there will ever be another week in that series :roll:

Eric"h" ----- nothing, week after week after week :cry:

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 11, 2011 10:27 am 
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One more question about the inlays, tough.

If the ring pieces are more like inlays then rings - like in Tony´s example cue.
Why do cuemakers use different wood (or black phenolic) for that piece of the cue.

Would it not be better and possible in that example, to only use one piece of wood
in the butt end behing the wrap (afterwrap), so there would be less big pieces :roll: :?:

Eric"h" ------ still wants to learn more

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 11, 2011 2:36 pm 
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mair23 wrote:
One more question about the inlays, tough.

If the ring pieces are more like inlays then rings - like in Tony´s example cue.
Why do cuemakers use different wood (or black phenolic) for that piece of the cue.

Would it not be better and possible in that example, to only use one piece of wood
in the butt end behing the wrap (afterwrap), so there would be less big pieces :roll: :?:

Eric"h" ------ still wants to learn more

I could be wrong. I think phenolic is used for strength and stability in certain areas of the cue. For example, at the "A" joint (buzz ring) and other areas which transition from one piece of the cue to another.

Scott

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 20, 2011 1:23 am 
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mair23 wrote:
hmmmm..............

does anybody think there will ever be another week in that series :roll:

Eric"h" ----- nothing, week after week after week :cry:



All of our efforts right now are being sunk into making this years VF party the best ever.

Jim <---That means other areas are suffering, but it'll be worth it in the end

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 21, 2011 8:49 pm 
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JimBo wrote:
All of our efforts right now are being sunk into making this years VF party the best ever.

Jim <---That means other areas are suffering, but it'll be worth it in the end



The best ever ............
Does that mean you will not be there :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
,
,
,
,
,
,

Eric"h" ----- hopes to see you anyway

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 23, 2011 10:32 pm 
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I will sick the head of security on you.

Jim <--------Friends with Timberly

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